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Makombu-Squash Soup

Any root vegetable—squash, carrots, turnips, potatoes—can be used to make this silky, umami-rich soup from award-winning Japanese cookbook author Hiroko Shimbo. The intense, deeply satisfying flavor of the dish comes from its base of dashi, a kelp stock that ranges in taste from mildly saline to sweetly vegetal and has the unique ability to enhance the natural flavor of anything simmered in it. From: Saveur SERVES 4

4 cups dashi
1 large green zucchini, roughly chopped
1 large yellow squash, roughly chopped
1 small white onion, roughly chopped
½ cup fresh or frozen peas
2 tbsp. olive oil
Kosher salt, to taste
Sliced chives, for garnish (optional)

Bring dashi to a boil in a 4-qt. saucepan. Reduce heat to medium-low; stir in zucchini, squash, and onion. Cook, covered, until vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Add peas; cook 1–2 minutes more. Stir in oil and salt. Let soup cool slightly, then working in two batches, purée soup until very smooth. Serve warm or chilled; garnish with chives, if you like.