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Roffignac

Count Louis Philippe Joseph de Roffignac served as mayor of New Orleans from 1820 to 1828, bringing cobblestones and gas lighting to the French Quarter. The concoction that celebrates him was a signature drink at Maylie's restaurant until 1986. When Maylie's shuttered, the Roffignac faded away. But recipes survive in books like Stanley Clisby Arthur's 1937 Famous New Orleans Drinks and How to Mix 'Em, which calls for whiskey, sugar, soda, and the curious "red Hembarig." This, says local bartender Paul Gustings, is raspberry shrub, a berry-infused syrup made with vinegar that adds a balancing zing to the drink. In his own version, Gustings swaps the whiskey for cognac, a nod to Roffignac's Gallic heritage. —Elizabeth Pearce From: Saveur MAKES 1 COCKTAIL

2½ oz. fermented raspberry shrub or stovetop raspberry shrub
1½ oz. cognac
½ oz. simple syrup
Soda water, to top

Shake raspberry shrub, cognac, and simple syrup in an ice-filled shaker. Strain into ice-filled glass; top with soda water.

Fermented Raspberry Shrub

This berry-infused syrup made with vinegar adds a balancing zing to all kinds of drinks, most famously the Roffignac, a sweet-tart cocktail named for New Orleans' last French mayor. Allowing it to ferment (as opposed to cooking it on the stovetop and using it immediately) makes it even tangier. MAKES 12 CUPS

4 cups champagne vinegar
4 cups raspberries
4 cups sugar

Stir champagne vinegar, raspberries, and sugar with 4 cups water in a sterilized jar. Cover; store in a cool place for 1 month; strain.

Stovetop Raspberry Shrub

This berry-infused syrup made with vinegar adds a balancing zing to all kinds of drinks, most famously the Roffignac, a sweet-tart cocktail named for New Orleans' last French mayor. MAKES 12 CUPS

4 cups champagne vinegar
4 cups raspberries
4 cups sugar
4 cups water

Place champagne vinegar, raspberries, sugar, and water in a 1-gallon resealable plastic bag; seal bag, squeezing air out. Bring a large pot of water to a boil; remove from heat. Submerge bag in water and let sit 45 minutes; strain shrub.