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Crab Fat–Caramel Wings

Mind-altering wings from Hot Joy. The crab flavor comes from a jarred condiment that’s pretty easy to find at Asian markets; if not, use the shrimp version.
From: bonappetit.com SERVES 4

½ cup fish sauce
1 ½cups sugar
¼ cup Thai crab or shrimp paste with bean oil
Peanut or vegetable oil (for frying; about 10 cups)
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1½ cups cornstarch, divided
½ cup vodka
2 pounds chicken wings, tips removed, flats and drumettes separated
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup chopped salted, roasted peanuts
Fresh cilantro leaves with tender stems (for serving)
special equipment:
A deep-fry thermometer

Bring fish sauce to a boil in a medium saucepan and cook until reduced almost by half (it will darken and become pungent), about 5 minutes. Stir in sugar and fit saucepan with thermometer. Cook until thermometer registers 230° (mixture will become thick and dark). Whisk in crab paste and 1 Tbsp. water until smooth. Reduce heat to low; keep warm until ready to dip wings.

Fit a large pot with clean thermometer and pour in oil to measure 2”. Heat over medium-high heat until thermometer registers 350°.

Meanwhile, whisk flour, baking powder, and 1 cup cornstarch in a medium bowl. Whisking constantly, gradually add vodka and 1¾ cups water, adding more water if batter is too thick (it should be slightly thinner than cream but thicker than milk).

Place remaining ½ cup cornstarch in a shallow dish. Season chicken with salt and pepper and dredge in cornstarch, shaking off excess.

Working in 3 batches and returning oil to 350° between batches, coat chicken in batter, letting excess drip back into bowl, and fry until skin is golden and chicken is crisp and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack set inside a baking sheet to drain. Using tongs, add hot wings to warm caramel, turn to coat, then transfer wings to a platter. Serve wings topped with peanuts and cilantro.

DO AHEAD: Caramel sauce can be made 3 days ahead. Keep airtight at room temperature. Reheat before using.