cookVietnamese Chicken Noodle Soup

Chef and author David Tanis insists on making broth for this restorative and iconic soup (pho ga) from scratch and warns against over­cooking the noodles: “They should be pretty firm and snappy, not flabby.” From: bonappetit.com SERVES 6

Chicken Stock
1 3½–4-lb. chicken
1 large onion, peeled, halved through root
2 medium carrots, peeled, cut into 1” pieces
1 celery stalk, cut into 1” pieces
Soup
2 pounds skin-on, bone-in chicken legs (thigh and drumstick; about 4)
¼ teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder
1 teaspoon grated peeled ginger, plus one 4” piece ginger, peeled, halved lengthwise
1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more
1 tablespoon sugar, plus more
2 medium onions, peeled, halved through root
2 6” pieces lemongrass, tough outer layer removed, stalk lightly smashed
6 black cardamom pods, crushed
4 whole star anise pods
2 cinnamon sticks
6 whole cloves
1 tablespoon fish sauce (such as nam pla or nuoc nam)
1 pound dried wide rice noodles
8 oz. mung bean sprouts (about 2 cups)
Spicy Pickled Shallots (see below), fresh tender herbs (such as Thai basil, mint, or cilantro), and lime wedges (for serving)

Chicken Stock

Bring chicken, onion, carrots, celery, and 5 quarts water to a boil in a large heavy pot. Reduce heat and simmer, skimming surface occasionally, until broth is flavorful and reduced by one-fourth, about 2 hours.

Strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl; discard solids. (You should have about 4 quarts). Let cool, then cover and chill.

Do Ahead: Stock can be made 5 days ahead. Let cool, then cover and chill.

Soup

Rub chicken legs with five-spice powder, grated ginger, 1 Tbsp. salt, and 1 Tbsp. sugar; let sit 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat broiler. Spread out halved ginger and onions on a rimmed baking sheet and broil, turning occasionally, until charred all over, 15–20 minutes. Add lemongrass, cardamom, star anise, cinnamon, and cloves to onions and ginger and broil until lightly charred and fragrant, about 1 minute.

Transfer onion mixture to a large heavy pot. Add chicken stock and fish sauce and bring to a boil. Add seasoned chicken, reduce heat, and simmer until chicken is just cooked through, 20–25 minutes.

Using tongs, transfer chicken to a plate. Let cool slightly, then remove skin and bones; discard. Shred meat. Continue to simmer broth until it reduces slightly and flavors concentrate, 50–60 minutes. Season with more salt and/or sugar, if desired. Strain into a large bowl or clean pot.

Cook noodles according to package directions. Using tongs or a spider, transfer noodles to a colander and run under cold water to stop cooking; set aside. (Keep pot of boiling water handy for reheating noodles.) Just before serving, return noodle cooking water to a boil. Place noodles in a fine-mesh sieve and lower into hot water to reheat, 30 seconds.

Divide noodles among warm bowls and add shredded chicken and bean sprouts. Ladle hot broth over, dividing evenly. Serve with Spicy Pickled Shallots, herbs, and lime wedges for squeezing over.

Do Ahead: Seasoned chicken broth can be made 2 days ahead. Let cool, then cover and chill. Bring to a boil before serving.

Spicy Pickled Shallots

“You always want to give the option of adding heat at the table,” says chef and author David Tanis. These shallots deliver acidity and fire in one shot. SERVES 6

2 medium shallots, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic thinly sliced
2 Thai chiles, with seeds, sliced
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar
¾ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt

Combine shallots, garlic, chiles, lime juice, vinegar, sugar, salt, and 1 Tbsp. water in a medium bowl. Let sit 20 minutes (shallots should still be crisp).

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