Tofu

Not all Tofu Is Created Equal

There are a lot of options available. While some types can be substituted (firm and extra-firm are largely interchangeable), but you’ll never have a successful stir-fry with silken tofu. Here’s a rundown of the most commonly-available types, and how to use them. (For a frighteningly thorough guide, check out this article from Serious Eats.

Soft Block Tofu: Versatile enough to be used in both puréed applications and savory dishes, this variety of tofu is equally at home in a puréed dessert (like pudding) as it is lightly battered and deep-fried.

Medium Block Tofu: Firmer than soft block, but delicate enough to crumble with excess handling, medium tofu can be baked to ensure it doesn’t fall apart.

Firm/Extra-Firm Block Tofu: If you have a stir-fry in your future, you should get to know firm and extra-firm tofu varieties. They keep their shape under pressure.

Soft Silken Tofu: This creamy tofu has a pudding-like consistency, and is ideal for blending into salad dressings, desserts, and even puréed soups. It provides dairy-free way to add creaminess to most recipes.

Firm Silken Tofu: Made from denser soy, this has a creamy consistency but holds its shape better than soft silken tofu. It’s ideal in Mapo Tofu and chunkier soups—and great when scrambled up like eggs. Claire Saffitz, associate food editor, likes to add pork for a satisfying anytime-meal.

Yuba: These soy “noodles” come from the skins of freshly-made tofu, and are a fantastic substitute for rice noodles in a stir-fry.

Draining Is Good—Pressing Is Better

Block tofu is packed in water to help preserve and keep it fresh. That means as much excess liquid should be removed as possible before cooking the tofu. Whether you’re baking, roasting, or frying (especially frying!) it, the results will be better-tasting and crispier-crunchier if you drain it first. To avoid soggy tofu-syndrome, senior food editor Chris Morocco likes to sandwich it between multiple layers of paper towel-lined plates and weigh it from the top. Your tofu sandwich should be constructed as such: plate, paper towels, tofu, paper towels, second plate, heavy can or cast-iron pan. It won’t hurt to go through two rounds of pressing and draining.

Create and Use the Perfect Marinade

One of the most common complaints about tofu is its bland flavor. We happen to think that’s what makes it so awesome. To infuse it with flavor from the inside-out, embrace acidic, bold marinades. The tofu will take on flavor faster than meat-based protein, meaning that a quick 10-minute spin in a garlicky-gingery marinade can pack a punch.

Ginger-Garlic Tofu

Chef Rene Ortiz of Sway in Austin, cooks a lot of tofu for his young vegetarian son. “He loves it,” says Ortiz, “and in order for all of us to eat it, it has to taste like something.” Ortiz’s solution: Let the porous tofu soak up the flavors of malty Chinese black vinegar and soy sauce. From SERVES 4

¼ cup Chinkiang (black rice) vinegar or balsamic vinegar
2 14-oz. blocks extra-firm tofu, drained, each sliced crosswise into 4 pieces
2 Tbsp. palm sugar or 3 Tbsp. light brown sugar
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 4”-piece ginger, peeled, cut into thin matchsticks
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
¼ cup low-sodium soy sauce
Fresh cilantro leaves (for serving)

Ingredient Info:
An aged vinegar made from black glutinous rice and malt, Chinkiang vinegar can be found at Asian markets.

Place tofu on a baking sheet lined with several layers of paper towels; place several layers of towels on top and press gently to remove liquid. Place tofu in a shallow baking dish.

Bring vinegar, soy sauce, and palm sugar to a boil in a small saucepan, stirring to dissolve sugar. Pour over tofu and turn to coat. Let stand at least 1 hour to marinate.

Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Add ginger and garlic and cook, stirring often, until beginning to brown, about 1 minute.

Drain tofu, reserving marinade; pat tofu dry. Add tofu to skillet and cook until golden on all sides, 5–7 minutes (remove ginger and garlic if they are in danger of burning). Add reserved marinade to skillet and cook until marinade is reduced and glazes tofu, about 2 minutes longer. Transfer tofu to a platter, spoon pan juices over, and sprinkle with cilantro.

DO AHEAD: Tofu can be marinated 8 hours ahead. Cover and chill.

Embrace Cornstarch, Your Secret Weapon

Sure, you could coat your tofu with a traditional 3-step breading process. But that’s labor-intensive and also stops flavor from permeating the tofu. (If you’re going to bread, be sure to marinate it first). Dawn Perry, digital food editor, likes to bypass the breading in favor of a double dip in a bowl of cornstarch. The drying qualities of cornstarch help suck up excess moisture, and get the tofu’s exterior deeply golden brown and crispy. Win-win.

Use the Right Pan for the Job

Got a nonstick pan? This is the time to use it. Don’t have a nonstick? We recommend seriously considering investing in one. Tofu has a tendency to latch onto pans, and a nonstick will set you up for success.

High Heat and Fat Are Your Friends

Don’t be afraid of the flame. When sautéing, high heat and plenty of fat will not only keep your tofu from sticking to the pan, they contribute to that toasty, crispy-chewy layer on the outside of your tofu. Meanwhile, the interior stays tender and creamy. Preheat your pan before adding the fat (the test kitchen likes vegetable and olive oils) and tofu, and don’t crowd the pan. Adding too much tofu at once will cause the surface temperature of the pan to drop, meaning soggy, not crunchy tofu.

Don’t Be Constrained by Asian Flavors

“Just because tofu is a traditionally Asian ingredient,” Saffitz explains, “doesn’t mean it should always be cooked with soy sauce and rice vinegar.” Test kitchen contributor Rick Martinez adds, “Consider it just like any other protein.” Tofu can be a great stand-in for chicken, beef, pork, lamb. And, because it takes on the flavors it’s cooked with, tofu provides a blank canvas for whatever great combinations you’re dreaming up.

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