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Double-Dark Chicken Noodle Soup

Our best-ever chicken stock begins with wings, which have a high skin-to-meat ratio. Browning the wings results in lots of caramelized nooks and crannies that imbue the stock with a deep, savory flavor. From: bonappetit.com Serves 8

Dark chicken stock
1 leek
Stems from ½ bunch parsley
6 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 pounds chicken wings
1 onion, unpeeled, quartered
3 carrots, peeled
2 celery stalks
2 garlic cloves
1 tablespoon tomato paste
½ teaspoon black peppercorns

Assembly
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2½ pounds bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed
8 ounces carrots, peeled, sliced ½” thick
8 ounces pearl onions, peeled, halved through root
8 ounces egg noodles
Fresh chervil (for serving)

Dark chicken stock

Trim dark green leaves from leek; discard all but 2. Slice leek in half lengthwise; set aside. Tuck parsley, thyme, and bay leaves inside leek leaves; tie closed with kitchen twine.

Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium. Working in batches, cook wings, turning often, until browned all over, 15–20 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

Add onion, carrots, celery, garlic, and reserved leek to pot. Cook, turning occasionally, until browned, 10–12 minutes. Add tomato paste; cook, stirring, until slightly darkened, about 3 minutes. Add ½ cup water, scraping up browned bits. Add wings, leek bundle, peppercorns, and 12 cups water; bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer, skimming occasionally, until stock is deep amber and chicken is falling off the bone, 1½–2 hours. Remove chicken and vegetables. Strain stock into a clean large heavy pot.

Assembly

Bring stock to a simmer over medium-high heat; season with salt and pepper. Add thighs, cover, and simmer until cooked through, 8–10 minutes. Transfer thighs to a plate; let cool slightly. Shred meat; discard bones.

Add carrots and onions to pot; simmer until tender, about 5 minutes. Add meat.

Meanwhile, cook noodles in a pot of boiling salted water until just al dente, 7–8 minutes. Drain; rinse under cold water. Add to soup. Serve topped with chervil.

Do Ahead: Soup (without noodles) can be made 2 days ahead (or 2 months if frozen). Let cool; transfer to airtight containers and chill.