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Duck ham

While it can be hard to cure and dry a whole pig leg, Raymond Blanc explains how making a duck ham is a relatively straightforward introduction to the art of curing. This recipe is very simple and each element can be prepared well in advance. Serves 4

For the duck ham and the crisped duck skin
2 large magret duck breasts, about 300g/11oz each, or 4 small duck breasts
100g/3½oz coarse sea salt (not rock salt)
2 tsp black peppercorns, crushed
4 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves only
1 tsp juniper berries, crushed, see note below
For the walnut dressing
2 tbsp extra virgin rapeseed oil
1 tbsp walnut oil
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the salad
2 large handfuls mixed salad leaves, eg Batavia, frisée, chicory, washed
crisped duck skin (see Step 6 below)
2 tbsp roughly chopped walnuts, lightly toasted in a dry pan (optional)
2 tbsp flaked almonds, lightly toasted in a dry pan (optional)

For the duck breasts, place the duck breasts flesh side down on a chopping board. Using a very sharp knife, slice off the skin leaving about 3mm/⅛in fat attached to the meat. This layer of fat is essential to protect the duck and add extra flavour. Score the fat.

Roll the skin up, wrap it in cling film and place in the freezer to be used later.

Mix together the salt, pepper, thyme and juniper berries and rub the mixture into the duck breasts. The thyme is important; as well as adding flavour, it contains antibacterial agents that will protect the meat from contamination as it cures.

Place the duck breasts, one on top of the other, in a snug container (a plastic tub is ideal), ensuring there is a layer of the curing mixture on the bottom, in the middle and on top of the breasts. Cover with cling film and place in the bottom of the fridge. Leave to cure for 24 hours, turning both breasts after 12 hours.

Brush the salt and spices off the duck breasts and rinse them under running water. Pat dry with kitchen paper then wrap each one in two layers of clean muslin. Tie securely with string, making a loop as you do so, and hang the breasts in the fridge for 12–14 days. It is important that the air can circulate freely around the meat and the temperature of the fridge does not exceed 4C/40F.

For the crisped duck skin, preheat the grill to its highest setting. Remove the skin from the freezer, unwrap it and slice into fine slivers. Place them under the grill until crisp and golden-brown, season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper and set aside.

For the walnut dressing, whisk together the ingredients in a small bowl to form an emulsion and set aside.

To compose the dish, unwrap the duck breasts and discard the muslin. Cut away any meat that may have become over-dried and hard on the flesh side then slice the breasts very thinly and arrange on four serving plates - use a very sharp knife; if the slices are too thick, the meat will be chewy.

Mix the leaves with the dressing and place small bundles in the centre of each plate. Scatter over the walnuts and almonds, if using, and the crisped duck skin.

Tip

Magret duck breasts come from birds that have been fattened for foie gras. Their large breasts are ideal for this dish as the high fat content will keep the flesh moist. There are two distinct processes in curing meat - first the salting and then the air-drying. It is important to use sea salt and not rock salt as it has natural curing agents in addition to sodium chloride. Curing small cuts of meat such as duck breasts needs about 20% of salt in proportion to the weight of meat.