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Pot au feu

For Raymond Blanc, this is the quintessential dish of French family cuisine. Despite its lack of sophistication, it had honoured the tables of the rich as well as the poor for generations and remains perhaps the most celebrated dish in France. A triumph of simplicity, it is also very frugal – the leftovers, if there are any, will make good eating for days. Serves 8

1 large or 2 small ham hocks, about 1kg/2lb 4oz total weight, soaked overnight in water to remove excess salt
500g/1lb 2oz beef flank, trimmed of fat
300g/10½oz smoked streaky bacon, in one piece, rind on
½ tsp salt
1 bouquet garni, 6 bay leaves, 4 sprigs fresh parsley, 2 sprigs fresh thyme
10 black peppercorns
1-3 garlic cloves, unpeeled
350g/12oz Morteau sausage, or other strongly flavoured, uncooked smoked sausage
400g/14oz whole marrow bones (optional)
6 medium carrots, cut into quarters
2 celery stalks, each cut into 4 pieces
2 turnips, peeled and halved
2 medium onions, peeled and cut into quarters, root left on
1 small Savoy cabbage, cut into 8 wedges, core left in
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the ham hocks, beef and bacon into a large pan and cover with about 4 litres/7 pints of water. Add the salt then bring to a boil and boil hard for one minute, skimming away any impurities that rise to the surface. This will make the broth pleasingly clear.

Turn the heat down to a gentle simmer, add the bouquet garni, peppercorns and garlic and cook, partially covered with a lid, for 3½ hours. It is important to simmer very gently, with bubbles only just breaking the surface of the broth, to ensure the meat stays tender and the broth is clear.

Skim off some (but not all) of the fat that has risen to the surface then add the sausage, marrow bones (if using) and vegetables and cook for a further 30 minutes, or until the meat is very tender and the vegetables are soft but still hold their shape. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

To serve, either place the pot on the table and let your guests help themselves or, perhaps more elegantly, carve the meat onto a warmed serving dish, surround it with the vegetables and serve the broth alongside in a warmed bowl. Dijon mustard, gherkins and slices of crunchy baguette make the meal complete.

Tip

Morteau sausages (saucisse de Morteau) are easily available online and are worth seeking out – their dense texture and forthright flavour are ideal for this dish. The canny cook can adapt this dish according to available ingredients. Other cuts of meat suitable for slow cooking such as beef shin, lamb shank and pigs cheeks could also be used, and parsnips, swedes, potatoes or celeriac could be added in place of, or as well, as the turnips.