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Latkes

"Today," writes Joan Nathan in "Jewish Cooking in America" (Alfred A. Knopf, 1994), "designer latkes are crisscrossing the country. These high-fashion potato fritters are laced with scallion, zucchini, carrots, and apples and sometimes topped with goat cheese. It is not the potatoes that are essential to what latkes, a Yiddish word that comes from the Russian latka, symbolize at Hanukkah....

"The oil in which the pancakes are prepared symbolizes the cleansing and rededication of the Temple in Jerusalem after it was defiled by the Syrians some twenty-one centuries ago. The Maccabees found only enough sacred oil to light the menorah for one day. But somehow one day's supply lasted eight.... Before potatoes arrived in Poland and Russia, latkes were fritters made most probably from buckwheat groats."

While they may look awfully similar, Rösti and latkes are not really one and the same. They are both made with potatoes that are grated and then fried. Yet the key difference is that latkes are made with eggs, while Rösti has no egg or other binding ingredient. It’s really just fried shredded potatoes. That said, you may see additional ingredients depending on the region in Switzerland, like bacon, onions, cheese or fresh herbs. Another difference is in the preparation of the potatoes. For Rösti, the potatoes are usually par-boiled before they are grated and fried, whereas latkes use raw potatoes. Lastly, latkes are shaped into small individual cakes, while Rösti here is usually served as one large round cake, taking the shape of the frying pan in which it was made.

Rose Clark Meltzer's potato latkes

"This recipe has been in the family for over 80 years or more," writes Rose Clark Meltzer of Skokie. "My mother was the best cook there ever was. She got up at 4:30 in the morning and always baked and cooked and I watched and followed in her footsteps."

The Jewish holiday Hanukkah begins at sunset Sunday, Dec. 13. "There is one favorite I think everyone likes," Rose says, "and that is good old-fashioned potato pancakes." Foods fried in oil are traditional at Hanukkah. 6 servings.

6 russet potatoes
1 onion
2 eggs, beaten
1/2 cup flour or matzo meal or cracker meal
Salt and pepper to taste
Oil for frying

Grate the potato and onion together. Let stand briefly and then drain off the liquid that rises. Mix in the eggs and flour or matzo meal. Salt and pepper to your individual taste. Mix it all together.

Heat up a frying pan with the oil. By spoonfuls put 6 or so pancakes in the pan. Heat on each side 5 minutes or so, turn over and if it looks brown enough, take out and drain on a paper towel.

If you want to keep some for the next day or so, wrap in foil, refrigerate and reheat in the oven.

Carrot and parsnip latkes

"Jewish Cooking in America", Joan Nathan.

3 medium carrots, peeled and coarsely grated
5 small parsnips (about 1 pound), peeled and coarsely grated
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 large eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon minced chives or green onions
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Peanut oil for frying

Toss the carrots and parsnips with the flour in a large bowl. Add the eggs, chives, parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Mix until evenly moistened.

Heat 1/4 inch of oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat until it barely smokes. Drop in the batter by tablespoons and flatten. Fry the pancakes several minutes on each side until brown. Drain on paper towels. 4 servings.

Curried sweet potato latkes

"Jewish Cooking in America", Joan Nathan.
Nathan suggests adding fresh grated ginger, for an Asian touch, tothe following recipe, adapted from her book.

1/2 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon ground red pepper
2 teaspoons curry powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 large eggs, beaten
1/2 cup milk (approximately)
1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and coarsely grated
Peanut oil for frying

In a large bowl, mix the flour, sugar, brown sugar, baking powder and spices. Add the eggs, milk and sweet potatoes. The batter should be stiff but not runny.

Heat 1/4 inch of oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat until it barely smokes. Drop in the batter by tablespoons and flatten. Fry the pancakes several minutes on each side until golden. Drain on paper towels. 4 servings.

Zucchini and cheese latkes

"Jewish Cooking in America", Joan Nathan

6 medium zucchini, grated
3 eggs
6 green onions, thinly sliced
1/2 cup chopped parsley (no stems)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves
1 cup shredded swiss cheese
Vegetable oil
1 to 1 1/4 cups flour
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Oil for frying

In a large bowl, combine the zucchini, eggs, green onions, mint, cheese and 1 tablespoon oil.

Add the flour, a small amount at a time, mixing thoroughly after each addition. Use just enough flour to give the batter body, but not enough to make it thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

In a large heavy skillet, heat 1/4 inch of oil. With a tablespoon, spoon the zucchini mixture into the hot oil and flatten with the back of a wet spoon. Cook on both sides until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Makes 3 to 4 dozen latkes.

Asparagus latkes

"Jewish Cooking in America", Joan Nathan

1 pound slender fresh asparagus
1 small carrot, peeled, ends trimmed
1 egg yolk
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground dried marjoram
1 teaspoon Italian olive oil
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh garlic
1/4 cup minced fresh onion
1/4 cup mashed unsalted dry-curd cottage cheese or reduced-fat ricotta cheese
1/2 cup matzoh meal (approximately)
2 egg whites
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
About 2 tablespoons Italian olive oil for frying

Break off the butt ends of the asparagus. Chop fine by hand or with a food processor fitted with steel blade. Scrape into a bowl. Finely grate the carrot by hand, or cut into 1/2-inch rounds and fine-chop in the food processor. Combine with the asparagus.

In a small bowl, combine 1 egg yolk with the spices, marjoram, 1 teaspoon oil and the parsley. Stir in the garlic and onion. Stir the cheese and add it, then stir in the asparagus mixture. Add the matzoh meal, a tablespoon at a time, stirring after each addition. Use just enough matzoh meal to give the batter body, but not enough to make it thick.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the egg whites on high speed until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and continue beating until stiff but not dry. Fold into the batter.

Cook the latkes in batches, 4 at a time, or use 2 large nonstick skillets, dividing oil. When the oil is hot, over medium-high heat, ladle a heaping tablespoon for each pancake into the skillet, spreading to a 3inch diameter (pancakes should be about 1/4-inch thick). Cook until well browned (4 to 5 minutes) before turning. Brown on second side, lifting up with spatula after 3 minutes to check doneness. Keep warm in a preheated 400-degree oven-toaster or oven. Makes 16 latkes.

Sweet potato dessert latkes

"Jewish Cooking in America", Joan Nathan

4 large sweet potatoes, peeled and finely grated
2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons matzo meal or flour
1 teaspoon sugar
Vegetable oil for frying
Powdered sugar, sour cream or whipped cream

Drain the potatoes well. Transfer them to a large bowl. Add the eggs, salt, matzo meal and sugar and blend thoroughly.

Heat 1/4 inch of oil in a large skillet and spoon in the potato mixture. Cook about 5 minutes a side, until brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot with powdered sugar, sour cream, or whipped cream. Makes 3 dozen latkes.

Apple dessert latkes

"Jewish Cooking in America", Joan Nathan

2 eggs, separated
1/2 cup milk or water
1 cup flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon unsalted butter or margarine, melted
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Vegetable oil
3 to 4 medium apples, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced
Powdered sugar and preserves

Beat the egg yolks until light. Blend in the milk. Stir in the flour, sugar, and salt. Add the butter and lemon juice and beat until smooth. Beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form and fold them into the egg yolk mixture.

In a large heavy skillet, heat 1/4 inch of oil. Dip each apple slice into the batter. Lift out with a fork and fry in the hot oil until browned on both sides. Drain on paper towels. Just before serving, sprinkle with powdered sugar and your favorite preserves. Makes 2 dozen latkes.

Potato Pancakes (Latkes)

From http://smittenkitchen.com/

My formula is roughly this: a one-pound russet or baking potato to one small onion, a large egg, quarter-cup of flour, teaspoon of salt and a hefty pinch of black pepper. How many you yield has to do with how big you make them; I aim for small ones (approximately three inches across) and get about a dozen per batch. But, if you’re not a formula person, here is a more official-like recipe:

1 large baking potato (1 pound), peeled
1 small onion (4 ounces), peeled
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
Peanut oil, for frying

In a food processor or on a box grater, coarsely shred the potato and onion. For longer strands, lay the potato sideways in the chute of your food processor. Transfer to a colander or wrap in a cheesecloth sling, and squeeze as dry as possible. Let stand for 2 minutes, then squeeze dry again.

In a large bowl, whisk the flour, egg, salt and pepper together. Stir in the potato onion mixture until all pieces are evenly coated.

In a medium skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil until shimmering.

Drop packed teaspoons of the potato mixture into the skillet and flatten them with the back of a spoon. Cook the latkes over moderately high heat until the edges are golden, about 1 1/2 minutes; flip and cook until golden on the bottom, about 1 minute. Drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining potato mixture, adding more oil to the skillet as needed.

Do ahead: Latkes are a do-ahead-er’s dream. You can also keep latkes warm in the oven for an hour or more, if you’re waiting for stragglers to arrive. Cooked, they keep well in the fridge for a day or two, or in the freezer, well wrapped, for up to two weeks. Reheat them in a single layer on a cookie sheet in a 400 degree oven until they’re crisp again. Bonus: If you undercooked them a bit or didn’t get the browning on them you’d hoped for, you can compensate for this in the oven.