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Mostarda di Frutta (Spicy Mustard and Fruit Preserves)

Mostarda is made mostly of fruit, and is closest, maybe, to a relish. It's best served with meats—its traditional counterpart is bollito misto, an assortment of boiled cuts—or cheeses that can take its sharpness. From: Saveur MAKES ABOUT 5½ CUPS

8 oz. dried apricots, quartered
4 oz. dried cherries, halved
1½ cups sugar
3 tbsp. Dijon mustard
2 tbsp. brown mustard seeds
2 tbsp. canola oil
¼ tsp. cayenne
4 green apples, such as Granny Smith, peeled, cored, and cut into ½" cubes
3 bay leaves
Kosher salt, to taste

Bring all ingredients and 3 cups water to a boil in a 4-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat; cook, stirring occasionally, until apricots and cherries are plumped, apples are tender, and liquid is reduced, about 40 minutes. Let cool.