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Elderflower panna cotta with gooseberry compote

A fragrant panna cotta, trembling delicately on its plate, is as elegant as puddings get. Makes four. From Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall

100ml whole milk
400ml double cream
40g caster sugar
3-4 large heads of elderflower
3 leaves gelatine
For the gooseberry compote
500g gooseberries, topped, tailed and rinsed
75g caster sugar
A few sprigs elderflower (optional)

Combine the milk, cream and sugar in a pan. Tie up the elderflower in a piece of muslin and add to the pan. Scald the liquid (ie, bring just to the boil, but don't let it bubble), then set aside to cool for half an hour, until hand-hot. Remove the elderflower.

Soak the gelatine in cold water for 5-10 minutes until soft. Lift out the sheets, shake off the water, then add to the cream mixture. Stir until dissolved.

Allow to cool to room temperature, stirring from time to time, then pour into four 125ml moulds or ramekins; chill until set (at least four hours).

Now make the compote. Put the gooseberries in a pan with the sugar and 50ml water. Add the elderflower, tied in muslin. Bring to a simmer and cook gently until the gooseberries are soft - about 10 minutes. Leave to cool, then remove the elderflower.

To turn out the panna cottas, dip the moulds very briefly in hot water, then turn upside down and shake. Serve with a spoonful or two of the compote.